Sunday, February 10, 2013

From the mountaintop

Since today is a holiday, I have been enjoying the luxury of a day off of school.  I had it all planned perfectly, sleep in, eat a nice breakfast, muck about, then hit the gym just after lunch.
But it's a holiday, and everything is closed (except the grocery store, thank god!)  Sullen and disappointed that my perfectly planned day off was interrupted I decided to take advantage of the "warm" day and hike up Namsan, the mountain behind my home.

It's been a couple months since I've been up this particular trail, and with the short days I knew I had to be quick about it.  I set myself a time limit for reaching the summit, but that didn't mean I hurried.  Armed with a camera and a need to stretch my legs, I set out from town up the snow packed trails of Namsan.
As I walked up the mountain, listening to the trickle of water beneath the frozen creek and the steady crunch of my own steps upon the snow, I realized something.
I hadn't had a conversation three days.
It wasn't startling, amusing, or upsetting.  It was the calm sort of epiphany that comes out of silence.  Meditation, contemplation, acceptance.
I strolled higher and higher, feeling sweat beading on my brow the higher I climbed.  I hadn't spoken to anyone, sought out any friends, or been sought out by anyone in a few days.  The thing that might seem odd, is that I wouldn't have it any other way.



Anyone who has met me would see it isn't a stretch of the imagination to call me an introvert.  Not that I dislike seeing and speaking to people, it's one of my consistent joys in life.  I love hanging out and being social, but I also love being alone.  This weekend of solitude reminds me that I not only like being alone, I need to be alone.



I love seeing my friends, and getting into all the ridiculous situations that we do.  Yet, I find that when I spend too much time out with others, I get anxious.  I don't know if it shows, but I feel testy, sometimes irritable, other times overly self-conscious.  Without a doubt, after a while I feel a deep draw in my chest, a pull that informs me I need to be alone. 
It's not always the same, sometimes I feel this way after a few days or weeks, other times I've been out and felt the need to be alone after a matter of minutes! (not that that means I didn't enjoy the company I was keeping at the time)  It's always different, but I feel that's part of who I am, this draw to step aside for a bit and just be alone....

 You might wonder, being the kind of introvert I am, don't spells of solitude make me lonely?
They do, actually.  Sometimes I feel a deep loneliness, I can't call it profound, though I do a great deal of thinking during these times.  And yes, this sort of loneliness is coupled with sadness.
Not the sort of sadness that makes you cry or cringe, something else.  Perhaps sadness isn't the right word, because I find that amidst these feelings I experience great calm.  Not always peace, but calm.


Being alone is a great time to meditate, something I fail to do as often.  After this weekend I think I might have to make a point to set aside time for it.

When I say meditation, I don't mean sitting on the floor with my legs crossed trying to calm my mind.
(I'm really lousy at sitting meditation anyway, my legs fall asleep too quickly).
I actually prefer active meditation, in this case, walking meditation.  Some Zen scholars assert that there are at least three kinds of meditation, standing, sitting, and lying down.  Meditation is not meant to have a purpose or a goal.  It's something you do for it's own sake, and many people experience clarity and enlightenment from it.
Personally, I meditate as a way to get crap out of my head. 
Do you ever have those strings of nonsensical thought clouding up your head?  What Alan Watts aptly called "chatter in the skull."  I get it all the time and I find it accumulates, kind of like plaque when you fail to brush your teeth.  With the chatter comes, fears, worries, stress, and other anxieties that creep in from daily life.  When I meditate, I don't suppress these thoughts.  In fact, I do the opposite, I let them run amok as I walk.  All sorts of things came through my head as I hiked up Namsan.  Thoughts of friends near and far, trips I mean to take, languages I want to learn, lesson plans I haven't made yet, office politics, and songs that have been stuck in my head for weeks.  I let it all run its course, not caring what came to mind and in what order.  I let it all go hog wild until at last, somewhere around halfway down the mountain, it came to a stop.
Quiet....
And that's meditation for me, letting it all come out (in my head) until I get that quiet catharsis behind my eyes.  It's that breath of fresh air, that seat after a long hike, warmth after a walk in the cold.
And my god how I've needed it!












Walking meditation has escaped me while I've been in Korea.  In fact, solitude has evaded me more often than not in this country.  Korea is a very communal culture, not only that, it's highly technological.  Everyone is wired in with smart phones, internet, and other devices.  People are constantly in contact with one another.
It makes me think of my students, especially middle school.  Even in a 45 minute class, I have kids who are constantly on their phones.  If not texting, then playing games, or otherwise ignoring the lesson. 
I realize my students likely suffer from a great deal of "all work and no play," Korean students are constantly studying, but they are also constantly stimulated.  With so much technology and so much time in school, I can't help but wonder when they have time to themselves.  I wonder what it would be like to be born in such a profoundly social society such as Korea, being the introvert I am.  How would such kids cope with the lack of free time?  The lack of quiet?  Or do they even notice?




I accept that everyone is different, and they cope with life in their unique ways.  This is one of the reasons I find meeting people to be such a joy, experiencing unique perspectives and personalities.


But sometimes, you just need to get away.  To go to the mountains, to be alone and revel in all the feelings that get bottled up in everyday life.











I came off the mountain in a sort of swagger that is wholly unlike my usual walk.  It was lazy and loose, a combination of tired limbs and placid mind.  I couldn't help but smile, feeling like Peter Pan, having captured my happy thought. 
But I don't need to fly, walking is enough for me right now.  I look forward to seeing people soon, having a good conversation and a couple of laughs.  Yet, I'm also eager to get back to the mountaintop. 

There's a lot more up there than just a view....





Saturday, February 9, 2013

Photos from Thailand, Bangkok... Part 1.

Eight days in Thailand is quite an experience.  Thailand is hot, humid, and a welcome reprieve from the biting bitter winds of South Korean winter.
The group touched down in Bangkok International Airport early in the morning, which was a relief as we were able to get into the heart of the city easily by bus.  We greatly enjoyed seeing the sprawl of the city as Bangkok seems to stretch out over a massive area, littered with skyscrapers and large buildings.  Not what I was anticipating from a city which sports such famous palaces and temples.  Those came later.  The ride to our hotel was rather amusing, as the driver insisted on playing music videos on his little dashboard television.  For some reason he decided to play music from the 70's, a sort of funky pop music from the era.  Though to be perfectly honest, it was quite catchy and had us all bouncing in a good mood all the way to Kosan Road.

We arrived on Kosan Road near 4 in the morning.  In all honesty nothing could have prepared me for it, nothing ever will.  Dark and dirty, the street was loaded with food vendors carting little stands of pad thai, or kebab, or... various local arachnids and insects.  Drunken tourists from all over the world were stumbling about or slumped in lawn chairs that littered the road side.  Shops were wrapped up tight, but the bars were still open and serving.  We gathered our belongings and shuffled through the crowd, several of us exchanging glances that screamed "My god, what did we just get ourselves into!?"
Kosan Road is at the heart of Bangkok, it's an infamous area where tourists drop into shop, drink, sleep, drink some more... you get the idea.  Of all the places I have been in the world, Kosan Road is perhaps the dirtiest, grimiest, and most ridiculous place I've ever been.  Yet, in spite of all its seediness and grime... I had a great time there.
We arrived early in the morning, checking into Kosan Palace Hotel near the center of the street.  Kosan Palace is quite nice considering its neighboring establishments, clean and cut back from the bustle of the street.  There is also a guard posted consistently by the entrance, helping add to the air of quiet security in a sea of shifting clamor.  The hour was well past late when we carried our bags up to our rooms, but that didn't stop us from going across the street to an open pub for a couple beers and a few rounds of pool.  I rather enjoyed tasting the local Thai beers (which are infinitely better than Korean beers, my god!  EVERYTHING tastes better after having to drink Korean beer for so long!) and chit chatting with the inebriated foreigners who were still out and about when we arrived.  Though good times were had, dawn crept up on us sooner than we expected.  Shopkeepers began opening their stalls and setting out racks to hawk cheap t-shirts and other bits of junk.  Before the sun hit the horizon I retired with my companion Dennis who I shared a room with during our stay in Bangkok.
The new day came soon enough and we were back on the street, seeing it under the scorching Thai sun:
Paul and Dennis on Kosan Road
















Pad Thai, on the street... amazing





Kosan Road is full of street vendors who will sell you all kinds of food for as little as 60 Baht (~$2).  Needless to say, I lived on cheap Pad Thai and egg rolls for a little over a week, this made me insanely happy in a poor foodie kind of way....















No tour of Thailand is complete without riding around in a tuk tuk.  Tuk tuks are little motorbikes with carts attached to them.  You can negotiate with the driver to take you anywhere for as little as 30 Baht!  Though you must be careful, as tuk tuk drivers are notorious for taking tourists to shops and sites they don't want to go.  These drivers get coupons and rewards for dropping tourists off at various shops and establishments, sometimes they take people around for hours!  Only to never get to the site the passenger asked for to begin with!
Our experiences with tuk tuks were actually quite good.  We managed to negotiate good prices before getting in and were only led astray a couple times in our few days in Bangkok.

Tuk tuks, classy no?
















If this looks incredibly dangerous, IT IS!  Tuk tuk drivers are notorious for weaving through traffic and speeding down narrow streets to quickly get places.  Taking a ride in a tuk tuk is not necessarily a wide life decision, but it certainly is fun! 








Bangkok is loaded with temples, shrines, and monasteries.  Driving down the road one can see dozens of little statutes erected to various Hindu deities, and many more dedicated to Buddha.

This is a snapshot of a Ganesh shrine.  Ganesh is a common site in Thailand and is a well known Hindu deity.  Ganesh is the son of Shiva in the Hindu pantheon and is often portrayed as a child with an elephant's head.  Ganesh is often seen as a god of good fortune and is often prayed to when beginning a new venture or business.

(This I find ironic given the story of how Ganesh got his elephant head is one that seems profoundly unlucky to me)

 One of our first temples was the one of the big buddha in Bangkok (though not quite as big as the one in Hong Kong, still impressive though)

Another big Buddha!
One of many temples around the city

Lighting incense at the shrine near Bangkok's big Buddha.
 This was an active shrine, as you can see people are meditating here before the enormous statue of Buddha.  The shrine made it very clear the importance of taking off one's shoes and being respectful.  I had no problem with that, it's part of the experience.  Of course the searing hot pavement was also part of the temple experience and led me to enjoy the company of shaded shrines throughout the temple complex!

This is actually a shrine to the King of Thailand, who is much beloved by all Thai people.
Well, that's part 1 for Bangkok, more to come!

On another Asian aside, HAPPY NEW YEAR!  Today is New Year's according to the Chinese/Lunar calendar.  Koreans consider this the more important new year (rather than the boring old regular new year that comes on January 1st).  If my knowledge of Chinese astrology is correct (and it rarely is, but we'll say it is for this instance) the year of the Dragon is over and now begins the year of the snake.  I certainly hope that bodes well for all (especially those who are afraid of snakes!)
In any case, happy new year!






















Friday, February 8, 2013

Photos from Hong Kong




Real Chinese food... is AMAZING!


Yep that's right, we're tourists.




The Peak overlooking Hong Kong








A bit of Hong Kong by night





On the tram to the big buddha
Buddha

Add caption









On the streets of Hong Kong


Narrative to come, but for now, let's let the pictures speak for themselves....
Hong Kong is awesome!